Anatomy of a well-built suit

bespoke suit

A bespoke suit is a term that has become quite popular in Men’s Fashion, and there is an excellent reason for it. The construction of it significantly differs from that of an off-the-rack suit in terms of the canvassing, lapels, inner lining, and buttons.

Canvas or no Canvas Bespoke Suit Jackets

A canvassed suit jacket is one that has layers of canvassing material which is typically made of wool and horsehair. It sits between the outer layer of the suit and the inner lining of the jacket. It takes the role of keeping the suit in proper shape and overtime taking the form of your body becoming a better fit the more you wear it. This is one benefit that you can reap when you purchase a bespoke suit completely handmade. A premium quality suit shall stay in shape and have a long life.

The other two options that you could choose is a half-canvassed or fused jacket. A half-canvassed suit jacket is one that has minimum padding inside. It has material that runs through the chest and lapels of the jacket, but beyond that, it is fused. It is much superior to the glued interlining of a fused coat as it is more comfortable.

A fused jacket is one that has a fusible interlining, unlike the canvassed jacket it does not have padding rather then it is glued to the wool fabric of the suit and the lapels. Fusing the jacket would give It shape, but it does not take the form of your body it lacks the natural look you would have in a canvassed jacket.


Lapels are the two flaps that are on each side of your jacket. There are different types of lapels, and each one conveys a separate message.

The Peaked lapel, which points upwards is all business; it does not give you a casual vibe. Instead, you will stand out more. Essentially, when you are purchasing a suit with a peaked lapel, you should make sure it isn’t too broad or oddly shaped because cutting the perfect peaked lapel is difficult.

The Semi-Peaked lapel is one that you can opt for when you would like to break out of your comfort zone. It would not make you stand out as much as a Peaked lapel.

The Notched lapel is the most common lapel you would find on a suit it is traditional and classic. A versatile look that fits in both a formal and casual environment. You could never go wrong with a Notched lapel; it is a safe option that wouldn’t stand out as much as the Peaked or Semi-Peaked lapel.

The Shawl lapel is not one that you would see as much. It is generally seen on a tuxedo and worn to formal dinners. A Shawl lapel isn’t appropriate for a business ensemble; it is more suitable for special occasions. It takes the right opportunity and the right crowd to pull it off.

Selecting the right and well-constructed lapel transforms your whole look.

Inner Lining

Adding an inner lining made from most beautiful silk to your suit gives it structure and adds weight to it. An excellent option in the cold winter months. The advantage of having an inner lining in your outfit is that it hides the internal construction of the suit and generally adds a very classic look to your suit.

Selecting an inner lining that complements your suit would definitely make you stand out in a crowd; it shows some personality.

Functional Buttons

There are two different types of buttons that you could have, which are functional or non-functional buttons. A functional button isn’t just stitched on the sleeves of your jacket for style, instead, it is one where you can unbutton and button on when you feel the need to roll up your sleeves.

A suit is an investment, it is essential that you look at every aspect of a suit before you purchase it and you could never go wrong with a bespoke suit that you designed yourself right here.

One thought on “Anatomy of a well-built suit

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