One thing that confuses people looking for suits is the Fabric Super. Fabric Supers, in simple terms, give an idea of how finely made the fabric is. The number represents the number of times the worsted wool has been twisted. Generally, the higher the number, the finer and lighter the cloth will be. The higher Super count will also mean that it has a smoother texture and appear more luxurious. Now, this doesn’t imply that lower Supers are bad. On the contrary, the lower super counts make the fabric heavier (warmer suits) and sturdier.
Before the 1950s super counts of 70 were the most finely made fabrics found. However, thanks to ever-evolving technology, the least refined materials available are now Super 90’s. The various Supers utilised in the suits of today range from the standard Super 90’s to the remarkable Super 120, and the rare Super 150’s up to the exotic Super 250s.
The Supers also indicate the maintenance cost of the suit. The Supers ranging from the 90s to 120s is suitable for daily apparel needs (Officewear or other occasions) as they suffer less wear than the higher supers from 130s and above. These suits look and feel fantastic; however, they are reserved for special occasions (Weddings etc.) as they are more prone to wrinkling and are harder to clean. Besides, snags in delicate fabrics happen more often and are challenging to re-weave and fix.
Super 90’s/100’s – These fabrics are wool and polyester blends and are perfect for cold climates. These suits are more onerous and last longer, but because of the polyester, they would not be as breathable as the higher supers. As a result, they tend to feel uncomfortable in temperate or hot weather.
Super 110’s/120’s/130’s – These fabrics tend to be either pure wool or blended with Lycra, Acetate, Viscose or Cashmere and are perfect to wear for important occasions. They require more maintenance and care than the more inexpensive Supers, but the quality and the feel of the fabric are superior in every way.
Super 140’s/150’s – These are some of the most delicate fabrics available and are made with the highest quality wool available. They are occasionally blended with silk or cashmere. The suits made of these fabrics are fragile in nature and are recommended to be worn rarely and for the most special of occasions.
A finely made bespoke suit will look excellent on you. However, choosing the correct Super for your fabric will make all the difference in the world.